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Nothing quite prepares you for the first morning south of the Drake Passage. The crossing is rough enough that most of the group is just grateful to be upright, and then the ship rounds a headland and the whole world turns white and blue at once. As a guide, my job on these mornings is …

First light in Antarctica Read More »

The light in Ilulissat does strange things to time. In late spring the sun barely sets, and after a few days on the ice you stop checking the clock and start reading the sky instead. This trip was ten days guiding and shooting across the ice cap near Nuuk and Ilulissat — mornings spent scouting …

Ten days on the Greenland ice cap Read More »